Traditional Lebanese Cooking

• Rinse the bulgur under cool water, drain it, and place it in a bowl with 1½ cups fresh water. Let it stand for 20 minutes, until softened. Drain well, then press it firmly in a fine sieve or clean towel to remove excess water. A wet mixture will make the kibbeh difficult to shape.

• Make the filling while the bulgur rests. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the chopped onion and cook for 5 minutes, stirring, until soft and translucent. Add ¾ pound ground beef, salt, cinnamon, and allspice. Cook for 7-9 minutes, breaking the meat into small pieces, until no pink remains. Stir in the pine nuts and cook for 1 minute. Transfer the filling to a plate and cool for at least 10 minutes.

• Heat the oven to 375°F. Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with 1 tablespoon olive oil. In a food processor, combine the drained bulgur, 1½ pounds ground beef, quartered onion, salt, cinnamon, allspice, and black pepper. Process in short pulses for 30-45 seconds, scraping the bowl once, until the mixture is smooth and holds together when pressed.

• Wet your hands and divide the kibbeh mixture into two equal portions. Press one portion firmly over the bottom of the prepared dish, making a layer about ¼ inch thick. Work from the center toward the edges and seal any cracks with damp fingers. Ask yourself: is the layer even enough that no filling will show through?

• Spread the cooled beef filling over the first layer, leaving a narrow ½-inch border around the edges. Press it gently so it is level, but do not pack it so tightly that the finished kibbeh becomes heavy.

• Flatten the remaining kibbeh mixture between two sheets of parchment paper into a rectangle slightly larger than the dish. Peel away the top parchment, then use the bottom sheet to lift and turn the mixture onto the filling. Press the edges together with wet fingers and smooth the surface. If small cracks appear, patch them with a damp fingertip.

Pro Tip: Score the kibbeh before baking. Cut diamond shapes about 2 inches wide, going through the top layer but not necessarily all the way to the bottom. This creates steam paths and makes serving cleaner.

• Drizzle the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil over the surface and spread it with your fingers or a pastry brush. Bake at 375°F for 35-40 minutes, until the edges are browned and the top is firm. For a darker crust, broil for 1-2 minutes at the end, watching closely.

• Rest the kibbeh for 10-15 minutes before cutting along the scored lines. Serve warm with lemon wedges and spoon full of cool yogurt. The lemon should be squeezed over individual portions rather than over the whole dish, so the crust stays crisp.

Chef Notes & Variations

Kibbeh bil sanieh is easiest to cut when it has rested but is still warm. Use a thin, sharp knife and follow the scored diamonds. For a neat plate, place one or two pieces beside a spoonful of yogurt and add lemon at the table. Leftovers keep in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to three days. Reheat them uncovered at 350°F for 12-15 minutes; the oven restores more crispness than the microwave.

Swap It: If fine bulgur is unavailable, use the finest cracked wheat you can find. Coarse bulgur will not soften enough during the short soaking time and can leave the layers rough.

The finished dish should hold its shape, show a browned surface, and offer a clear contrast between crisp crust, spiced lamb, and cool yogurt.

Quick Version

Soak and drain fine bulgur; process with beef, onion, salt, cinnamon, allspice, and pepper. Layer half in an oiled dish, add sautéed beef, onion, and pine nuts, cover with the remaining mixture, score, oil, and bake at 375°F for 35-40 minutes; rest and serve with lemon and yogurt.

End of chapter one. 4 more chapters in the full book.