101 Mistakes Havanese Owners Make

Problem: If you bring home a puppy before you know where they’ll be seen and how quickly, you can lose days or weeks when something is already wrong. By the time you “schedule later,” a simple issue can turn into a bigger one.

Solution: Before pickup, call a vet and ask for a puppy new-patient appointment within 48-72 hours. Bring any records the seller has and ask what to watch for in the first week.

Result: You catch issues early and start vaccines and deworming on time.

#2: Choosing Based Only on Cuteness

Problem: “Small and sweet” can hide early stress, illness, or fear. A puppy that looks adorable but is lethargic or overly clingy often becomes harder to handle later.

Solution: Watch the puppy for 10-15 minutes during interaction. Choose the one that’s curious and responsive, not the one that’s constantly hiding or barely moving.

Result: You start with a puppy whose behavior matches what you can actually manage.

#3: Ignoring the Puppy’s Age

Problem: Age affects learning, vaccine timing, and how much independence a puppy can handle. If you bring home a puppy too young, you may run into separation and health problems fast.

Solution: Ask the seller for the exact birth date or at least the best estimate. Plan your first routine around that age (feeding frequency, sleep needs, and potty expectations).

Result: Your schedule fits the puppy instead of forcing them to “catch up.”

#4: Waiting to Ask for Medical Records

Problem: Some sellers avoid paperwork or give vague answers about vaccines and deworming. Without records, you can’t tell what’s been done or what’s due next.

Solution: Require a written record list: vaccines given, dates, and deworming dates/products. If they can’t provide it, you walk away.

Result: You reduce guesswork and avoid skipping important prevention.

#5: Accepting Vague “They’ve Been Wormed”

Problem: “Wormed” without dates or product name is almost useless. Puppies can still carry parasites that cause diarrhea, poor growth, and dehydration.

Solution: Ask: “What product did you use, and what date?” If the seller can’t answer, plan a vet check and deworming schedule immediately.

Result: You prevent a common gut problem from becoming a recurring one.

#6: Taking Home a Puppy With Runny Eyes

Problem: Runny eyes can be mild, but it can also signal infection or irritation. If you ignore it, it may spread or worsen, especially in multi-puppy environments.

Solution: Look for discharge (yellow/green), redness, and constant tearing. If you see it, ask the seller what’s been going on and get a vet exam quickly.

Result: You avoid bringing home a contagious or painful eye issue.

#7: Choosing a Puppy That Won’t Eat During Visits

Problem: A puppy that refuses food at the seller’s home or during your visit may be sick. Stress can play a role, but “won’t eat” is a red flag, not a quirky trait.

Solution: Offer the puppy the same food they’re used to (ask what they feed). If they still won’t eat, don’t pick them - ask for a vet check first.

Result: You reduce the chance of buying into an illness.

#8: Selecting the Most Aggressive Puppy

Problem: Aggression at a young age often comes from fear, poor handling, or overstimulation. If you pick it “because it seems tough,” you may create safety problems in week 1.

Solution: Choose a puppy that can be approached, handled lightly, and redirected. If a puppy bites hard when you touch them, skip them.

Result: You start with a puppy more likely to learn quickly and safely.

#9: Selecting the Most Shy Puppy

Problem: Extreme fear can turn into lifelong reactivity if you don’t understand the cause. A puppy that freezes or panics may need more experience than a beginner has.

Solution: Ask to see them in a calm, normal setting and watch how they respond to gentle attention. If they’re constantly panicked, choose another puppy or plan for professional help.

Result: You lower your risk of ending up with a fear-heavy dog.

#10: Picking a Puppy From a “Always Excited” Household

Problem: A loud, chaotic environment can make puppies mouthy and wired. Later, you’ll struggle to teach calm because the puppy never practiced it.

Solution: Ask what the daily routine is like: quiet time, handling, feeding, and sleep. During your visit, check whether puppies can rest.

Result: You bring home a puppy that’s already used to normal rhythms.

#11: Not Inspecting the Living Conditions

Problem: Dirty bedding and strong odors often mean higher parasite and infection risk. Puppies can pick up problems before they ever meet you.

Solution: Check cleanliness of sleeping area, food bowls, and floors. If you see feces build-up or wet, soiled bedding, don’t proceed.

Result: You reduce the odds of bringing home preventable disease.

#12: Overlooking Fleas or Flea Dirt

Problem: Fleas can cause itching, anemia in young puppies, and skin infections. Flea dirt looks like tiny black specks that turn reddish when wet.

Solution: Look closely at the belly and base of the tail. If you see fleas or flea dirt, ask for treatment proof or choose another litter.

Result: You avoid a fast spiral of itching, scratching, and vet costs.

#13: Ignoring Skin Issues

Problem: Red patches, scabs, or greasy fur can point to infection, mites, or allergies. Skin problems often worsen after stress from a new home.

Solution: Check for bald spots, strong odor, and excessive scratching during your visit. Ask what they’ve seen and whether a vet diagnosed anything.

Result: You prevent a “cheap puppy” from becoming an expensive medical project.

#14: Choosing a Puppy With Diarrhea

Problem: Diarrhea can be parasites, stress colitis, or infection. Bringing that home means you’ll deal with it while also trying to housebreak and train.

Solution: Ask about recent stool issues and how long they’ve lasted. If there’s active diarrhea, skip the puppy and ask the seller to confirm vet care.

Result: You protect your first weeks from constant messes and dehydration risk.

#15: Ignoring Vomiting or Loose Stools History

Problem: If a puppy has vomited or had loose stools in the last few days, it can be ongoing. You might not notice until the move triggers more stress.

Solution: Ask for a timeline: when it started, how often, and what they did. If you can’t get clear answers, don’t take the risk.

Result: You avoid bringing home a puppy likely to keep breaking down.

#16: Picking a Puppy Without Meeting the Mother

Problem: You can’t judge future behavior and health traits if you never see the mother. Temperament and some health issues may show up in the dam.

Solution: Request to meet the dam in a safe, respectful way. Watch her comfort with handling and her overall health.

Result: You get a better clue about what your puppy may become.

#17: Picking a Puppy Without Meeting the Sire

Problem: If you only see the puppies and not the father, you miss another behavior and health clue. Some traits repeat across generations.

Solution: If possible, meet the sire or at least see proof of his health and temperament. If the seller refuses completely, treat it as a major warning sign.

Result: You reduce surprises later.

#18: Buying From Someone Who Won’t Answer Questions

Problem: Evasive answers usually mean lack of records, poor practices, or hidden problems. If you feel rushed, that’s often not an accident.

Solution: Bring a short checklist (medical records, deworming dates, vaccine dates, routine). If they dodge, stop the process.

Result: You keep control and avoid hidden risk.

#19: Not Asking What the Puppy Eats

Problem: Sudden diet changes can cause diarrhea and picky eating. Many “new home” stomach problems are simple food-change mistakes.

Solution: Ask for the exact food brand, flavor, and feeding schedule. Plan a gradual transition only after you know the puppy is stable.

Result: Your puppy’s stomach stays calm during the move.

#20: Assuming “They’ll Adjust”

Problem: Puppies don’t “adjust” like a grown dog. Stress can show up as diarrhea, loss of appetite, and fear behaviors.

Solution: Plan a low-stress first week: quiet room, consistent schedule, and predictable meals. Expect some adjustment, but watch for red flags.

Result: You help the puppy recover faster and learn faster.

#21: Not Checking for Proper Ear and Eye Health

Problem: Thick ear discharge, strong odor, or constant head shaking can mean infection. If you choose that puppy, you’ll start with discomfort.

Solution: Gently check ears for redness and smell. Look for clear eyes without heavy discharge. If anything concerns you, ask for vet notes.

Result: You start with a puppy whose body isn’t already struggling.

#22: Choosing a Puppy That’s Always Crying

Problem: Constant crying can come from pain, separation stress, or illness. If you pick that puppy, you may end up with sleepless nights and urgent vet visits.

Solution: Observe quiet moments during your visit. Ask if it’s been happening daily and what’s been done to help.

Result: You avoid a difficult start that drains your energy.

#23: Choosing a Puppy That Lacks Energy

Problem: Low energy can be normal sleepiness, but it can also signal infection or parasite burden. New puppy fatigue is real - but “barely responsive” isn’t.

Solution: Watch how they react to movement, soft voice, and gentle play. If they look weak or unresponsive, skip them and ask for a vet check.

Result: You reduce the chance of illness showing up right after the move.

#24: Not Planning for the Puppy’s Size

Problem: “They’ll stay small” is a common lie or assumption. Wrong expectations can lead to unsafe handling and under-prepared housing.

Solution: Ask expected adult weight and height from the breeder/seller. Prepare your home and supplies for that size, not the current cuteness.

Result: You avoid scrambling when the puppy grows.

#25: Ignoring Breed-Specific Needs

Problem: Some breeds need more exercise, more grooming, or more mental work than a beginner expects. Choosing without that knowledge leads to frustration and neglect.

Solution: Ask the seller what daily needs look like for that type of dog. Write down your realistic schedule and match it to the breed’s typical needs.

Result: You choose a puppy you can actually meet halfway.

#26: Assuming Mixed-Breed Means “No Traits”

Problem: Mixed puppies still have traits - coat type, energy level, and prey drive. “Unknown” doesn’t mean “easy.”

Solution: Look at parents (if known) and the puppy’s physical traits now (coat texture, size, activity). Choose based on what you can manage.

Result: You reduce the chance of mismatching your lifestyle.

#27: Choosing a Puppy With a Bad Bite Response

Problem: Some puppies show poor control early: hard bites with little stopping. If you pick them, you’ll face a steep training climb.

Solution: During handling, see if the puppy can take a toy and mouth gently. If it’s constant hard biting, pick another puppy.

Result: You start with better bite inhibition potential.

#28: Not Testing Basic Handling Tolerance

Problem: If a puppy hates being touched, you’ll struggle with grooming, vet exams, and nail trims later. Handling tolerance is teachable - but only if it starts right.

Solution: Gently touch paws, ears, and mouth for a few seconds. Watch whether the puppy tolerates it without panic.

Result: Daily care becomes less stressful for both of you.

#29: Choosing a Puppy Without Checking Vaccination Timing

Problem: If vaccines aren’t on track, your puppy may be exposed to preventable diseases too soon. Waiting to “catch up later” can be risky.

Solution: Ask for vaccine dates and when the next dose is due. Confirm the schedule with your vet before you expose the puppy widely.

Result: Your puppy stays safer while their immune system builds.

#30: Ignoring Deworming Product Type and Dates

Problem: Dewormers aren’t all the same, and dates matter. A puppy can still have worms if the timing was off or incomplete.

Solution: Ask for product name and dates. If the seller can’t provide it, treat it as unknown and follow your vet’s plan.

Result: You reduce diarrhea risk and help your puppy grow strong.

#31: Bringing Home a Puppy Without a Leash Plan

Problem: If you don’t plan how the puppy will be carried and controlled after pickup, you can create dangerous escapes. Many first-week injuries happen during “just quick” outings.

Solution: Have a secure carrier or leash setup ready for the ride home. Keep them controlled during transitions.

Result: Fewer accidents and less stress.

#32: Choosing a Seller Who Pushes You to Decide Fast

Problem: Pressure often means they’re hiding something or trying to lock in a sale before you verify details. You need time to check basics.

Solution: Tell them you need records and a vet plan. If they refuse reasonable time, walk away.

Result: You don’t trade your puppy’s safety for a rushed purchase.

#33: Skipping a Face-to-Face Health Check

Problem: Online-only picks can miss obvious signs like breathing issues, dehydration, or skin problems. A photo can’t tell you how a puppy moves and responds.

Solution: Meet the puppy in person and check: eyes, nose, skin, stool, breathing, and energy. If you can’t meet, don’t buy.

Result: You catch concerns before they become your problem.

#34: Not Asking About Recent Stress Events

Problem: A move, overcrowding, or illness in the litter can cause stress and diarrhea right after you bring the puppy home.

Solution: Ask what changed in the last two weeks: illness, vet visits, weaning changes, or housing changes. Use that info to plan your first week routine.

Result: You’re not blindsided by “unexpected” symptoms.

#35: Choosing the Puppy That Follows You Instantly

Problem: Instant clinginess can be stress or over-attachment. Some puppies are sweet, but frantic follow behavior can turn into separation issues.

Solution: Watch how they behave when you stop moving and when you let them rest. Choose a puppy that can explore and then come back calmly.

Result: You reduce the odds of a puppy that panics alone.

#36: Ignoring Tail and Back Health

Problem: A puppy with limping, stiffness, or abnormal posture may have an injury or joint issue. If you ignore it, you may worsen discomfort.

Solution: Walk them a short distance at the seller. Watch for limps or repeated favoring of a leg. Ask if anything has been seen by a vet.

Result: You avoid a hidden orthopedic problem.

#37: Choosing a Puppy With Frequent Sneezing

Problem: Sneezing can be mild, but frequent coughing or nasal discharge can signal respiratory illness. Puppies spread infections quickly in close quarters.

Solution: Ask about coughing/sneezing in the litter. If you see nasal discharge or persistent coughing, skip and ask for vet confirmation

. Result: You avoid bringing home a puppy with a contagious respiratory issue.

#38: Picking a Puppy With Watery or Gunky Eyes

Problem: Runny eyes, stuck lids, or thick discharge can mean infection or irritation. If you choose that puppy without checking, you may end up treating an illness in your home instead of enjoying week one.

Solution: Look at both eyes in bright light. Check if the discharge is clear, yellow/green, or crusted. Ask if the litter has ongoing eye issues and whether a vet has checked it.

Result: You start with a puppy that’s less likely to need urgent care.

#39: Choosing a Puppy With Diarrhea or Soft Poo at the Seller

Problem: Loose stool at the breeder or shelter often means stress, parasites, or diet changes. If you pick that puppy, you can stack problems on day one - new home, new food, and a sick stomach.

Solution: Ask what they’ve been eating and when it last changed. If stool is watery, ask for a fecal check result. Skip if the seller can’t explain the situation.

Result: You lower the odds of diarrhea that derails training and sleep.

#40: Not Checking for Parasites or Fleas

Problem: Fleas and worms can be obvious, but not always. If the puppy is itchy, has a rough coat, or has a bloated belly, you need to treat that before it turns into a long, messy battle.

Solution: Inspect the skin and coat. Check for flea dirt (tiny black specks that look like pepper), and ask when deworming last happened. Get the deworming schedule in writing.

Result: You bring home a puppy that starts healthier and calmer.

#41: Ignoring “Tiny Bite” Teeth and Gum Damage

Problem: Some puppies have mouth pain, inflamed gums, or injuries from rough handling. If you ignore it, feeding and play can become painful and hard to train.

Solution: Gently look at gums and teeth. Ask if any puppies in the litter had mouth injuries or if the puppy is chewing oddly. If anything looks off, have your vet examine them soon after pickup.

Result: You avoid feeding fights and painful oral issues later.

#42: Choosing a Puppy That Won’t Make Eye Contact at All

Problem: Total avoidance can be shyness, but it can also show illness, fear, or neurological discomfort. If you pick a puppy that won’t respond normally, you’ll spend weeks decoding stress instead of building trust.

Solution: Observe for a full minute: do they notice you, move toward you, or respond to your voice? Choose a puppy that shows curiosity or at least tolerates handling.

Result: You pick a puppy you can bond with faster.

#43: Buying a Puppy Without Seeing Vaccination and Deworming Records

Problem: Vague “they’ve had shots” isn’t enough. Without dates and products, you can’t plan what’s next, and you can miss a window that matters for protection.

Solution: Request records with dates and what was given. If it’s missing, ask if the puppy is scheduled for a vet visit right away and get that plan in writing.

Result: You know what protection your puppy already has and what comes next.

#44: Trusting a “Health Guarantee” That Excludes Common Problems

Problem: Some guarantees exclude things you actually care about, like parasites, diarrhea, or congenital issues. If you don’t read it carefully, you can pay twice - once for the puppy and again for treatment.

Solution: Ask for the guarantee in writing and read the exclusions. If the seller won’t share it or it’s full of loopholes, skip the purchase.

Result: You avoid getting stuck with expensive problems and no help.

#45: Choosing the “Hardest to Handle” Puppy as a “Project”

Problem: People pick the most chaotic puppy because they want to “fix” them. Often that puppy is overwhelmed, under-socialized, or unwell, and the stress piles up fast.

Solution: Choose based on match, not rescue vibes. Look for a puppy that’s curious and manageable during handling. If you want a challenge, still pick a puppy that’s physically healthy.

Result: Training starts with fewer fires to put out.

#46: Ignoring Siblings and Litter Behavior

Problem: Littermates can reveal patterns: persistent fear, repetitive pacing, or constant illness can show the environment isn’t right. One puppy can still be a good match, but ignoring the group is a mistake.

Solution: Watch how the siblings interact during your visit. Are they playful and responsive, or consistently withdrawn and sick? Ask what the litter’s routine has been.

Result: You reduce the chance of picking a puppy from a rough setup.

#47: Choosing Based Only on Looks

Problem: A pretty coat doesn’t tell you about health, temperament, or how the puppy handles people. First-week problems often come from body signs you can see if you look.

Solution: Use a checklist during your visit: eyes, breathing, stool, skin, movement, and how they respond to handling. Beauty comes last.

Result: You pick a puppy that has both the look and the foundation to thrive.

#48: Not Checking How the Puppy Walks

Problem: A puppy that toe-walks, stumbles, or has a stiff gait may have a joint or muscle issue. If you choose them anyway, you risk worsening something painful.

Solution: Ask to see the puppy move on a flat surface. Watch how they place all paws and whether they get tired too fast. If anything looks wrong, ask for a vet check.

Result: You avoid surprise orthopedic issues.

#49: Choosing the Puppy That’s “Too Perfect” and Never Messes

Problem: Puppies that are overly calm can be fine, but they can also be ill, sedated, or simply not getting normal play time. If the puppy never engages, you’re missing a big clue.

Solution: Watch them wake up and engage for a few minutes

End of chapter one. 9 more chapters in the full book.